Ride the Peruvian Paso Horse: The Most Underrated Day Trip from Lima
I was an avid horse rider in my childhood years. Lately, not so much until a spontaneous booking and an exhilarating gallop across an empty beach in western Costa Rica reminded me how much I loved it. Since then, I have been on a few grumpy barn horses when I got back to visit my parents, but it hasn’t been the same. For one, most places in the US won’t allow you to do more than walk the first time you get on the horse, even with prior experience (somewhat understandable), and won’t even let you get on until you sign up for some sort of monthly riding (and payment) plan (completely unacceptable). Not one for early morning commuting, let alone four-hour round-trip trains to Long Island or New Jersey, horse riding is something I only really get to do on vacation.
I had googled "horse riding in Peru" on a lark and found intriguing results about the Peruvian Paso horse, which is claimed to be the smoothest ride in the world thanks to its unusual four-step gait. Most of what was offered was a show of other people riding horses, a mandatory buffet lunch, followed by some kind of traditional dance performance by a woman in a very flouncy skirt. A swift “no, thank you” to all three of those for me-it sounded more like an elementary school field trip.
But then a place on TripAdvisor, of all places, caught my eye for its high ratings and the promise of actual horseriding without any spectacles or educational moments (or buffets shudder).
Cabalgatas Peru
Cabalgatas, meaning “trail ride” or “hack” in Spanish, is a stable off the Pan American highway, about an hour and a half away from Miraflores. They offered several exciting options: trailriding through the desert dunes surrounding the stable, the nearby beach, or both. They also offer regular horse riding classes, including an intriguing horse-based gymnastics option. Their website is in Spanish, but you can use Google to translate the information.
How to book
I first reached out on WhatsApp, and they responded within the hour, even though it was already 10:30 pm. They sent me a PDF menu (above) with different options based on time and scenery. I was practicing my Spanish, but you can easily do this with Google Translate if you are worried about comprehension. After consulting my Mom, who was joining me for four days in Lima, we decided on the “Lomas” option: A two hour trail-ride through the desert dunes.
From there, I had to send our preferred riding date and time, along with information such as our height, weight, riding experience, passport number, and birthdate, via WhatsApp. They also sent over driving directions and an offer to have their trusted taxi driver come pick us up from our hotel, wait the two hours, and drive us back at the end for an extra 280 soles (~$83 USD). I wasn’t worried about Ubering there but I was worried about finding one for the journey back so we decided to book their taxi, too. They had asked for a 50% deposite but as we could not pay via Yape or another national way, they waived it and asked us to pay cash and in full once we arrived.
I booked the horse riding about two weeks in advance. I hadn’t heard from them the day before or about any of the taxi details, so I messaged them again, and while they were a bit slow in responding. They responded in the late afternoon, saying they had confirmed our trail ride and to be ready to leave at 7:15 am. A few hours later, they sent Yuri, our taxi driver, my number, and vice versa so we could communicate via WhatsApp. The next morning, Yuri was parked outside of our Miraflores hotel at 7:10, ready for us to hit the road.
The Cabalgatas experience
After a winding road and a fortress-like entrance, the Cabalgatas stable was absolutely gorgeous. The stable and the fields- and even the bathroom, such a rarity!- were immaculate, and the horses looked healthy and well fed, and we were greeted by a particularly adorable furry groundskeeper.
Cabalgatas moved quickly: Our horses, Saturno and Pimentel, were waiting for us already tacked. Carlos, our trailride leader, introduced himself, had us sign liability forms in English, helped us pick out helmets, and then off we went into the desert!
And wow, what an amazing time it was!
Carlos was our leader, but he was pretty content to do whatever we wanted. He didn’t speak much English, which was great for practicing my rusty Spanish. Carlos is a professional polo player who teaches horse-riding and leads trail rides at Cabalgatas when polo season closes for the summer (in December). The stable mostly owns Peruvian Paso horses and a few polo horses (including his).
He said the horses are incredibly gentle, and even with minimal experience, they can be used like a friendly taxi. He wasn’t kidding! Saturno and Pimentel knew the route like the back of their hand (hoof?) and were more than happy to pick up the pace whenever we nudged them. Peruvian Paso horses can’t trot, but they have their own version called the paso llano, which is a horse version of an elegant power walk. It took a little getting used to if you are used to trotting, but once you got in the rhythm, it went from bumpy to like riding a cloud across the desert. The horses would break into this even as they went downhill, something you’re taught to be very cautious of when riding American barn horses. The horses were more than happy to start cantering with a slight tap of the legs. They broke into beautiful, smooth canters that felt more like being on a carousel or a rocking horse than a real horse.
Our two horses were friends, but even then, their friendliness, willingness, and energy were well beyond the usual trail-riding experience. They made the whole trailride a dream. We asked Carlos for photos at a few points, and he made sure to capture the mountains in the background. He also very nicely rode ahead to capture a video of us doing the paso llano on his phone.
After two hours, all of us were sweaty and tired. Even starting at 9 am, it was hot, and the sun was really beating down on us, so we were glad we didn’t do the three-hour option (I think our horses were, too). Even with long sleeves and sunscreen, the inside of my wrist and the left side of my neck still burned, so be sure to bring water, sunscreen, and don’t be afraid to reapply (saddlebags are available).
When we got back, we paid Carlos in US dollars (they also accept local currency), and he sent the photos and videos via WhatsApp. Then Yuri took us back to Lima before the afternoon traffic could pick up. We got back to Miraflores a little before 12:30 pm and more than ready for a good ceviche lunch.
Would I recommend Cabalgatas?
Yes! I would highly recommend Cabalgatas for anyone looking to go horseback riding in Peru. Carlos said they help teach many children to ride, and given the horses' easygoing temperament, I think it would be a safe and immensely enjoyable experience for people of all ages and riding levels! Visit their website or message them on WhatsApp to hear about their options.
If I had stayed in Lima longer, I would have absolutely signed up for a trail ride or, if I was feeling bold, maybe even given the horse gymnastics a go.